Tajikistan

Some photos from Dushanbe

I realize it has been a while since I posted anything, but it was not because of laziness. For whatever reason, every time I have tried to log into blogpot to post an update it refuses to grant me access. It is not just this blog, but it also prevents me from reading other blogspot blogs.

In any event, as many of you are aware the past few weeks have been a very turbulent time in the southern part of Kyrgyzstan. Thousands have been killed and hundreds of thousands have fled to Uzbekistan. There are widespread reports of ethnic cleansing of Uzbeks by roving bands of Kyrgyz, and systematic rape of Uzbek women by these same gangs. The fighting and gunfire has not reached Bishkek, but the events certainly demonstrate that the interim government has little to no control over the country.

While all of this was going on, I was asked to attend a conference in Dushanbe, Tajikistan. I've already written about the scary plane ride to Osh, multiply the fear factor by one hundred and that is what the flight from Bishkek to Dushanbe is like. The entire flight is over a series of mountain ranges. It is very warm here and extremely warm in Dushanbe. As the hot sun hits the remaining snow and glaciers on the mountain peaks, thick clouds form just above the mountains. It is a thrilling two and a half hours when you intermittently emerge from the dense clouds to find that you are barely clearing the mountains in this ancient propeller plane. The only airline that flies the Bishkek to Dushanbe route is "Tajik Air." I'll have to wikipedia it sometime, but I believe they have about five airplanes that are currently capable of flight. The words "Tajik Air" on the side of the plane had been hand painted and appeared quite crooked. I really wanted to take a photo of the plane, but Tajikistan is not the kind of place where one starts snapping photos without permission, especially at the airport.

Dushanbe is a small and very hot city. There is one western hotel, the Hyatt. I must say it was actually a very nice hotel. The city does not have much to offer. I did a little walking around and found a great Indian Restaurant which was cheap and delicious. It was called the "Dehli Darbar." Remember that name because they are apparently franchising. According to their menu they also have a restaurant in Kabul, Afghanistan. Should you find yourself in either Kabul or Dushanbe I highly recommend the Lamb Tikka Masala, some naan, and a cold Baltika 7 (Russian beer).

The conference was good. Mainly a discussion of the legal problems in the five main Central Asian countries (name them all and win a prize).

The plane ride back was horrendous for more reasons than just the fear of crashing into a mountain. It was about 90 - 95 degrees in Dushanbe. The plane was absolutely packed with people, many wearing jackets and sweaters in the stifling heat. After spending an hour in line at Passport Control watching one border guard barely work while five others watched from their booths (which were closed), I had just enough time to get on the bus which takes you out to the plane. I knew right away on the bus there was going to be an issue. The suffocating stench of body odor had already taken over the bus. We then got onto the plane and discovered that there is no air conditioning or even air circulation system. Do you know what is worse than forty people with body odor? Forty people simultaneously fanning themselves creating a potpourri of stench which I still have not washed off. I realize shorts and a tee shirt are socially unacceptable, but a jacket and a wool hat on a 90 degree day??? WTF!